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Well more like a couple nights… whatever.
Making flight reservations seven months ahead of time can be both good and bad for several reasons. Clearly, the earlier you book reservations, the cheaper it will be but who knows seven months later what will actually occur during the semester and how home sick one will become.
I wouldn’t say I was incredible homesick, however, I neglected to bring winter clothing to Cairo so therefore, on my voyage for four days to Rome I had a blast (sans winter clothing).
I left Cairo Wednesday the 19th with Meghan and we headed off to Cairo International Airport – clearly after a fight with the cab driver – before finally saying goodbye to Egypt. I traded the remainder of Egyptian pounds before going through the final checkpoint and “officially” leaving Egyptian soil. We waiting in the terminal for an hour or so before boarding (also having to pay 22 LE for a small thing of Pringles – almost $4!!). We left Cairo aboard Alitalia and had a rather disappointing meal, but the quick hop (3 hours) across the Mediterranean was rather simple… until landing. We were, say 200 feet, off the ground and about to land on the runway when all of a sudden, we took a nose dive UP towards the sky. With the engines roaring we began circling around back over the Med and tried again. According to our Italian neighbors, the pilot, who shouted over the intercom while it was happening, said that another plane crossed the runway we were supposed to be landing on, oops.
We took the train and then the metro into Rome and it was rather chilly. We eventually found our hostel (right near Termini Train Station) northeast of the centre of town since there is no official downtown in Rome. We put our bags down and got ready and headed out for our first night on the town. We took a bus along one of the main corridors in central Rome and found a cute little trattoria where we were the only foreigners. I got a salami, tomato and mozzarella calzone and Meghan got spaghetti with meat sauce. It was excellent and we split a cheap (but good) bottle of wine. It was so cute being there at Christmas time with all the families out in their best (well that is normal, Italians are stunningly dressed year around), with kids, grandkids, cousins, the whole lot out to eat.
After dinner, we went to Campo de Fiori, a nightlife area right near where we ate. We went to a few bars, enjoyed happy hour specials, and just relaxed before our big day on Thursday where we had to see all of Rome in one day since Meghan was only in Rome for one day.
The next morning, we got up wicked early (6:45am) and took the bus to the Vatican. Vatican City, or the Holy See, is the head of the Catholic Church and is the smallest independent state in the world. It is completely surrounded by Rome (and Italy) and there are no border checks to get in/out of the country. We got there early and were some of the first people to enter Piazza San Pietro or St. Peter’s Square as the sun was rising. The square was virtually empty and a huge Christmas Tree was located near the center. We first decided to go into St. Peters Basilica, which is one of the largest (second only to one in Africa somewhere) cathedrals in the world. Built in the 16th & 17th centuries, the dome was designed by Michelangelo and is still one of the largest and most beautiful in the world. We saw the Swiss Guard that protects the Vatican, as well as Michelangelo’s famous Pieta which stands near the entrance to St. Peter’s, several tombs of popes as well as the soaring architecture of the Basilica itself.
A funny few notes: first, I accidentally swore in the Basilica. One reason for me getting deported from the Vatican. Then, all of a sudden something fell and I said: “that scared the sh-Krap out of me.” Reason two. Then, I said “there is probably a ninety-eight percent chance I won’t ever become Pope, but should I, I want to be named Leo (after my kitty, of course).” So I took a photo posing as Pope Leo and I got yelled at in Italian. But clearly I didn’t get deported, but it would have been a nice story.
After visiting St. Peter’s Basilica and St. Peter’s Square, we grabbed a quick espresso while we waited for the Vatican museums to open. I may not be the biggest coffee drinker, but the espresso was pretty awful. Later, we had a decent cappuccino and I had another espresso which was better, but I was kinda disappointed.
At the Vatican museums, the first room we saw was Egyptian Art. I wanted to shoot myself. The Vatican Museums have artwork and relics from all over the world, not just unique to Italy or Rome, so we basically tore through this section and found the ancient Greek and Roman section before heading off to the Cappella Sistina, or the Sistine Chapel, which is where all the Cardinals meet to elect a new pope (once one dies, clearly). The ceiling is the most famous ceiling in the world, with Michelangelo painted as scenes from the bible including the Creation of Adam, which is where G-d had his outstretched finger almost touching the outstretched finger of Adam. Michelangelo’s Last Judgement is also in the Sistine Chapel, and I took photos even though I wasn’t allowed to. Along the walk to the Sistine Chapel, some incredible artwork including one of my favorite pieces of art is just painted on a random Palace wall. School of Athens by Raphael depicts Plato and Aristotle and other important figures during Greek antiquity. I can’t believe I got to see it.
After the Vatican, we ran to the Spanish Steps and grabbed a quick bite to eat for lunch. The Spanish Steps are a tourist attraction unto themselves. It has become increasingly popular among tourists and locals alike as these beautiful steps link the Trinita dei Monti, a famous church and the Piazza di Spagna at the bottom. This is in one of the main upscale shopping areas of Rome and the street directly at the bottom is comparable to Fifth & Madison Avenues in NYC and Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. The Steps are also a popular site in many films that feature Rome.
We then walked along through the shopping district, seeing all the beautiful holiday windows of Versace, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Gucci, Prada, amongst others, until we got to the Fontanta di Trevi, or Trevi Fountain, which was made popular during the film, Roman Holiday, and a visit to Rome isn’t complete without a visit and a toss of a coin over one’s shoulder. It is the largest of all of the fountains in Rome designed under the Baroque architecture.
We then walked the two kilometers from the Trevi Fountain towards the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. Along the way, we saw one of the Imperial Forums and a large crowd of people gathered, with tons of photographers focusing on a few gentlemen. Clearly, I took a few photos because this is Europe and you never know who is going to show up in the papers the next day. It turns out, that the Portuguese Prime Minister (and rotating EU-President) Jose Socrates, Spanish Prime Minister Jose Rodriguez Zapatero, European Commission President Jose Manuel Barroso, and Italian Prime Minister Romano Prodi. Unfortunately, French President Nicholas Sarkozy was meeting with the Pope. He is my favorite European leader so I didn’t get to meet him.
We then went to the Roman Forum, which was the centre of Ancient Rome. A little disappointing because much of the ruins are barely recognizable but it was pretty cool. The archways and Roman columns were my favorite part basically, but I love Roman columns with anything.
On the east-side of the forum is one of the most famous and recognizable structures in the world: the Colosseum. Actually called the Flavian Amphitheatre, this ancient feature of Rome was one of the largest built in the Roman Empire and is a must-see on every tourists visit to Rome (I actually saw it three times). Much of it was actually sacked during the centuries following the fall of the Roman Empire and a lot was taken for use elsewhere in Rome and Italy so much of the original theatre is actually gone. Most, if not all, of the entire upper level was gone, much of the interior was destroyed and the original floor, under which was dressing rooms and animal pens for the Gladiators, is now exposed. However, in my opinion, the current state of the Colosseum is actually more beautiful than it would have been two-thousand years ago. We walked around a little outside before heading inside to view the site.
We then went back to the Vatican to see St. Peter’s Basilica at night, which was incredible, especially right before Christmas with the tree in St. Peter’s Square. We then grabbed another great Italian dinner in a trattoria and then we went out to a pub crawl. Along the way, we walked by the Trevi Fountain at night, which was also incredible.
The next morning, Meghan went to the train station to head to the Airport since she had a very early flight out. I slept in and for the next two days was on my own, although I had incredible fun in the hostel with some great people from Turkey, Brazil, Australia, and Missouri.
Friday, I took it easy hanging out around Piazza della Republica, which is one of my favorite squares (especially at night). I chose to go out and see some of my favorite works of art and visit some churches all over Rome. I first walked back to the Spanish Steps, then walked around the upscale shopping areas around the Spanish Steps.
Rooftops of Rome from the top of the Spanish Steps. You can see the Dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in the distance.
I love Roman architecture. Incredible. I then stumbled upon the Pantheon, which is an ancient Roman basilica with the most incredible dome, which is the largest unsupported dome in the world. It has stood for nearly 2,000 years and remains a beautiful site, despite how ugly it is outside.
Friday, I just walked around Rome a lot, since it is a very walkable city. I then went to the Piazza Navona which is a central square in Rome. A giant cathedral is on one side, while the Piazza is occupied during the Christmas season by a huge Christmas Market, which was so much fun but kind of an eyesore against the Roman backdrop.
Within the Piazza is Bernini’s famous fountain, Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, which is gorgeous but was under reconstruction. The fountain is also featured in Dan Brown’s novel, Angels & Demons, which centres on the incredible works of art that make Rome one of the most incredible places I have ever been.
I walked around a little more, before going to the Pizzeria da Baffetto, which came highly recommended by a friend (Molly) who studied in Rome for the past semester. It was a flat, crispy crust but was great (and cheap too). Then, I walked around Rome at night stopping at the Pantheon and the Colosseum before heading back and going out with a few people from my hostel.
On my final day (Saturday, December 22), I walked around Rome all day, seeing tons of churches and incredible works of art as well as just the incredible architecture of Rome.
St. Theresa in Ecstasy by Bernini.
A cool fountain by my Hostel.
I love the blend of yellow paint/stucco with the white/grey marble that is ever-present all over Rome.
The Chains of St. Peter, and below is the Tomb of Pope Julius II, which is an unfinished work by Michelangelo. The central figure is Moses.
I then walked around near Capitoline Hill, which has the Capitoline Hills and centers around the Piazza Campidoglio and a grand stairway designed by Michelangelo. Yet again, I love the mix of yellow paint and the white marble decorating much of the exterior of much of Rome.
Then, I walked around Il Vittoriano, which is the monument to King Vittorio Emanuele II, the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and also the most hated monument in all of Rome. It is very large and unimposing and is considered by most Romans as unattractive and cannot stand the site at the Piazza Venezia. It, however, does provide nice views of much of Rome.
I did some more walking around, since most of the churches were closed right after lunch until mid-afternoon. So here are just some photos of the beautiful buildings and streets of Rome.
I then went to see some Churches because of the incredible artworks that are just scattered everywhere throughout Rome.
Afterwards, I grabbed a bowl of pasta and a glass of wine to celebrate the holidays and heading home. I was at an Irish pub and they ended up showing American college football so I had a couple of Guinnesses before walking around Rome and heading back to my hostel to say goodbye to Rome.
So I managed to get across the Jordanian-Israeli border with ease and very little questioning. I bypassed a tour group so I didn’t have to wait several hours like I did at the Egyptian border. I then found an Arab bus that was leaving in thirty minutes for Al Qads, which is Arabic for Jerusalem. 32 Shekels ($8) and another forty minute drive through the West Bank, I was just outside of Jerusalem. I saw the “Apartheid Wall” that divides much of the West Bank and Palestinian Territories from Israel but my opinion will follow…
As we headed out of the West Bank into East Jerusalem, we drove up a highway (since Jerusalem is high in the mountains) that was lined with Menorahs celebrating Hanukkah. I completely forgot that it was the Hanukkah season and was overjoyed to be returning to the holiest city in the world. I arrived at the Damascus Gate of the Old City at about 1pm – with my huge bags in tow – where I fought my way through the Arab Souk in the Muslim Quarter of the Old City. I finally managed to get through into the Armenian Quarter (familiar territory) before realizing it was still Shabbat so everything in the Jewish Quarter would still be closed. I grabbed a quick shwerma before heading to the Christian Quarter to see the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which is one of the holiest sites for most Christians.
This Church is built on the site in Jerusalem where Jesus is believed to have been crucified and also buried. Also, there is the Stone of Anointing which was the place where Jesus’ body was placed following his crucification. It is also one of the stations of the Cross, but I didn’t really understand what all was going on and most were unwilling to really explain it to me. I touched the Stone (hopefully I am allowed to) for anyone who is Christian and who will be unable to do so in their lifetime. It was incredibly powerful seeing Pilgrims making the voyage to Jerusalem, and although it isn’t a pillar of my religious beliefs, the power that it brings to others is truly inspiring.
After wandering around the Old City for a little more, I hailed a cab (a Mercedes one of course, Israel is $$$) to go to Mt. Scopus, where I was staying with a friend for the weekend. I actually was staying with a friend of a friend and we kinda knew each other and so it ended up working out really well. My friend attends the Hebrew University on Mt. Scopus which is technically in East Jerusalem and has incredible views of the Old City, West Jerusalem (New City), and most importantly, the Kotel, which is the Western Wall, the holiest site in Judaism.
And most of the time, I just hung out with friends in their apartment or hung around the campus area. It was so much fun just hanging out, watching movies, COOKING, going to the market, and just sitting around goofing off. It also nice not having gender segregation… one thing that is horrible about AUC. I honestly wish here in Cairo I could just go to female friends rooms, if only to watch a movie in pajamas or sit around and talk in the privacy and comfort of someone’s bedroom.
Anyways… Saturday night we went to an incredible restaurant/book store in Downtown near Ben Yahuda Street and then we went for a drink and to smoke some Houkah nearby. We also got ice cream and I got to hang out in the part of Jerusalem that I love so much. Then, the group of us returned to Mt. Scopus and watched a film.
The next morning, I awoke early and laid in bed for awhile until about 9:30am… when… the room started to shake a little. I didn’t think much of it; I really thought my friend was under the bed or pounding on the walls or something, so I went back to sleep. A couple hours later at breakfast (MILK & CHEERIOS!!!) one of her roommates yelled “there was an Earthquake this morning!” To which I replied, wow that was an earthquake. Kinda cool. It only measured 4.0 but I could definitely feel it. After putzing around for a little, Jen and I took one of the buses into downtown and went to the Shook (Israeli outdoor market), where I got some candy and sweets. We went to lunch at a deli (clearly delicious) and coffee on Jaffa Street before she had to return to campus for a quick class and I headed off to the Old City to visit the Kotel.
Just a quick note that I hadn’t even thought of. Earlier in the day, when we were deciding upon plans, I was asked if it was okay that we took a bus. I replied of course, before realizing the severity of the question. There are several students who live in Jerusalem that refuse to take buses anywhere because the Israeli bus system has been a favorite target amongst Arab suicide bombers. At least forty buses have been bombed in Israel in the past fifteen years, but there haven’t been any suicide attacks in Israel since 2005 (sans one in Eilat in January) which is why I actually think the Wall built between Israel and the Palestinian Territories has been effective. It does serve a practical purpose, which has been to protect the Israeli citizens. It has done just that. I understand some questions about the legitimacy of it, but how is it truly any different than an electrified border fence.
Back to my trip. So I walked through the Jewish Quarter before heading to the Kotel. The Kotel, or Western Wall or Wailing Wall, is the holiest site in Judaism. It is the only remaining wall of the walls that held up the Temple Mount, which is where the First & Second Temples stood. It is the only wall that remains from the Second Temple Era, which was destroyed two-thousand years ago. Now, atop the Temple Mount, sits two mosques. One the Dome of the Rock is one of the most famous mosques in the World and it is the Golden Dome that everyone sees when they think of Jerusalem. The other, al-Aqsa, is less recognizable, but the whole site represents the place that Muslims believe Muhammad ascended to heaven. So yes, three of the holiest sites in the three most important monotheistic religions. And you wonder why Jerusalem is such a hot topic?
During the 1948 War of Independence, Israel lost control of the Old City and the West Bank as it was annexed by neighboring Jordan. In 1967, upon the success of the Six-Day Way, the Jews gained control of the Western Wall for the first time since the Romans destroyed the Second Temple. So I went down, went through security, grabbed my favorite prayer book and put on my yarmulke and touched the wall. Every time I see it, sometimes inside me lights up. I can’t really explain it. I read some prayers at the wall, before saying a few prayers and touching a few items to the wall. It is also custom to write wishes or prayers on a piece of paper and place it in the crevices of the wall, as many believe the wall is a direct connection to G-d. After praying, I thought about it for awhile, and decided against walking up to the Temple Mount to see the two mosques. I don’t know if it was a lack of desire since I have seen so many mosques or my Jewish distaste for not being allowed to build a Third Temple, but I chose against it.
I walked around a little more, through an open-air mall before heading back to Mt. Scopus to head back to my friend’s apartment. That night we had pasta and meat sauce before lounging around for yet another night: hanging out, watching movies and just being lazy.
Monday was a continuation of Sunday night as I didn’t really leave the apartment since it was cold and dreary. I watched a movie or two with friends, had great food (including DR. Pepper) and just enjoyed my time, which was reminiscent of freshmen year in college. Community life was very important so it made it quite fun.
Monday night I took a bus from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv and then an overnight bus from Tel Aviv to Eilat, where I slept for most of the ride. I went through customs quickly and found a bus back to Cairo that left at 10:30. So I was back in Cairo by 5:30. I left Jerusalem at 9:30pm and twenty hours later, arrived back in Cairo, with only two weeks left in the Egyptian Capital.
Sorry for the lack of photos from most of my journey. They always say that when you are truly enjoying yourself, a memory is so much more important than a photo. I would agree. So yes, I leave two weeks from today (12/19) from Cairo and will be heading to Rome for four days. The last fourteen days I will be here in Cairo, finishing up the semester both academically and socially. I will be home in 18 Days! So excited, yet so sad at the same time. It has been quite a semester and I will begin in the next few days to wrap it up.
Enjoy the holiday season. I miss the snow and lights and shopping and food and time with friends and family, but I will be back soon! Best!
Just days after returning from an exhilarating trip to Luxor and Aswan for Thanksgiving, I packed my bags again, this time heading elsewhere in the Middle East. I decided to travel by myself to Jordan and Israel for my last trip around the region, mainly because I had to get to Petra in Jordan and since I am so close to Israel, it was very important that I return. I had planned to meet up with friends at certain points during the trip, so I wouldn’t be alone all five days.
I left Wednesday evening from the Sinai bus station in Cairo. After dodging through the herds of Egyptians taking overnight buses to the Red Sea resorts (Sharm el-Sheik, El Gouna, Dahab), I found my way to the bus heading to Taba, which is the border town along with Israeli border. After a six-hour bus ride (in which I slept for most of it), I arrived at the Israeli border at 4:30am. Thinking “oh this should be a piece of cake” I took my time walking to the border, fiddling with my passport and crossing into no-mans land. Upon reaching the Israeli border, I realized a tour group had just been let off before us and it would probably take several hours! I went through the usual border procedures (where are you from, how long are you staying, why are you coming to Israel, who do you know) and the inevitable: “are you Jewish?” If so, “what was your Torah portion from your Bar Mitzvah”, which, if answered correctly, is your automatic gateway into Israel. I was in by 7:15 and took a cab to the bus station, only to realize that no buses went to the Jordanian border until later, so I met up with a couple of guys and we shared a cab to the border. In the one hour I was in Israel, we drove along the beautiful Red Sea, saw the area I went snorkeling in, passed by the mall and the beaches, and drove through one of my favorite places, Eilat. I reached the Jordanian border, crossed through effortlessly, and obtained my free visa without any question.
After crossing, the two guys I had taken the cab with were also going to Petra, so we hired a modest cab for the two-hour ride north through the mountains to Wadi Moussa, which is the town located outside of Petra. We stopped along the way and got great Bedouin tea (as usual) and made it to the town by 11am, where I checked into the quaint Valentine Inn, before heading with our driver to the entrance of Petra.
Petra was an ancient civilization – over two-thousand years old – where the citizens carved out a city into the mountainside. It is located in the southwest portion of Jordan, in a valley, surrounded by mountainous peaks. The entrance is nearly a kilometer long, and consists of a natural valley pathway that was enlarged. It also contains an elaborate water system and some carved out rooms in the mountain.
By far the most recognizable site at Petra is the Treasury, which is considered by most a tomb, carved out of the rock. Other than a little restoration work, the entire Treasury was carved from the single mountain and no additional rock was added. Again, I resort to photos to best display the ancient city.
We sat around for a little and I had tea with a few Bedouin women who graciously offered their tea and food. I guess I hadn’t realized that walking down into the valley to see the ruins would result in me having to walk back up at the end of the day, which I had to take in several stages. I got back to my hotel and took a quick nap, followed by some light reading, a decent, yet tasteless buffet at my Inn. I read a little more in the common area, but took an early night, since it was freezing and I had slept for only a few hours on the bus ride the previous day.
I got up relatively early the next day and I had been told that the only bus for Amman (capital of Jordan) would leave at 6:30am. I felt that was a lie so I woke up at 8 and walked to the bus station, where low and behold, there were a few minibuses waiting around until they were full to head to Amman. Best part: if I had taken the “lone” 6:30 bus, it would have been 15 Jordanian Dinars, or $20. But this minibus (which also only took 3 hours instead of 4) only was 3 Dinars, or $5. Brilliant.
I arrived in Amman and shared a cab to my hotel. I was exhausted at check in and did some more leisure reading before heading out to explore the area around my hotel. I had not planned to come to Amman to begin with, so I had no expectations. The only reason I came was because one of my Fraternity Brothers, Jake Patoski, was in Amman on business. So before we met up, I walked around a little, grabbed some tea, and bought a backgammon board! I have been meaning to buy one and I probably paid a little more than I would in Egypt, but it is great quality and I can’t wait to bring Towla back to the United States.
I ate dinner at Midan Abdoun (Abdoun Square) at a restaurant where all the writing was in Arabic and I had a decent shwerma wrap before grabbing a donut, across the street, before hailing a cab to meet Jake.
One side note, however. In Egypt, a lot of locals try and speak to me in English and so I have to force them to speak to me in Arabic. But in Jordan, as soon as they knew that I spoke some Arabic, they refused to speak to me in English. They kept saying “yanee” (like) or “lets figure it out. No English” which was great for my Arabic. Plus they speak the dialect I am used to. Anyways, it was great using my Arabic and the people actually understanding exactly what I was saying.
Jake and I went to a quasi-diner with great shisha and drinks where we caught up for awhile before heading across the street to a bar, called Blue Moon Pub. Didn’t expect much, however, this place was borderline American strip-club. Tons of women dancing around in skimpy clothing, dancing all over what seemed like high-powered business men. But first, no money was being exchanged and second the girls really seemed to enjoy it. We couldn’t understand if they were being paid or not by the bar or if they were just girls that come and play at the Bar. So weird.
After wishing farewell, I realized that I didn’t have my book on me so I therefore couldn’t remember what my hotel was called. I got in the cab and was like “oh man, where am I staying?” It also didn’t help that I had no idea what street I was staying on, what neighborhood it was in (other than just Downtown) or any landmarks within a ten-block radius of my hotel. The closest thing I could tell him was the Roman Theatre, which was a good 2-3 minute drive past my hotel. So we just went and I eventually told him to go down Shariyah Malik Hussein (King Hussein St) until I recognized where I was, and SUCCESS! I made it home and crashed.
I was nervous about Saturday since I wasn’t too positive of all the plans to get to the Israeli border and then from there into Jerusalem. Plus, my friend had been MIA in responding so I wasn’t sure of where I was going to stay. But I got up, took a cab to the “new cab place” where I could catch a service taxi to the Israeli border. It wasn’t too bad and the trip took only forty minutes. At the border, I took the necessary steps to leave Jordan only to realize I had to pay another 3 Dinars to take a bus to the border. The actual customs & passport facilities are 4km to the border, and you have to take a bus. You can’t walk. So I scrounged together 3 Dinars and was off to Israel…
I was in Jordan for a little over two days and thoroughly enjoyed it. Jordan is quite modern for an Arab nation and parts of Amman reminded me of a cross between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. It is definitely a more open society than Egypt, but is still trying to catch up to its Western, mini-America nation next door.
Athens tends to be a bit out of reach for many American tourists. Most would prefer to visit London, Paris or Rome, but I decided that being so close to Greece, I should take advantage of one of the most historical cities in the world (I just tend to visit historical cities: Jerusalem, Cairo, Istanbul).
I arrived Saturday morning and boarded the quite modern Athens Metro bound for downtown. The people seemed nice, although I clearly was a foreigner, since, like the infamous Gucci Corner at AUC, I wasn’t quite dressed up to par. Don’t worry – I stepped it up during the remainder of my stay. After checking in, I wandered around my neighborhood a bit, getting to know the lay of the land. Upon any traveler’s first awe-inspired gaze at something historically or culturally important, that moment tends to be ingrained in one’s memory for quite some time. I will always remember the moment I first saw the Eiffel Tower, or the Western Wall in Jerusalem, or even seeing the Statue of Liberty or U.S. Capitol Building for the first time, and as soon as I thought about when I would get to see the Acropolis for the first time, I glanced to the left down a side street and there it was. In all its glory. A huge outcrop of land jutting into the Athenian sky, impressing thousands of years of history down upon its mere visitors.
After a quick siesta, I climbed Lykavitos Hill, which is another random outcropping of mountain in the middle of Athens, although this is taller, and offers a spectacular view of all of Athens: from the mountains surrounding the ancient city all the way to the Aegean Sea beyond and islands kilometres away. Being the avid climber I am (Masada, Mt. Sinai, Red Canyon), I hiked the fifteen minutes to the top, which afforded amazing views of the entire city. Despite sunset occurring behind the clouds, I left a bit early to catch the lights of the Acropolis from halfway down the mountain. I caught this BEAUTIFUL shot of the Acropolis at dusk, which, seriously, should be a postcard.
I have a slight obsession with the Acropolis at night, so after I walked down the mountain, I sat in a Greek cafe for a few hours, talking with some locals. Most of them speak English and they couldn’t believe that I wasn’t Greek. This one lady thought I was her best friends nephew and prodded me for about fifteen minutes telling me to stop lying. I got that pretty much all weekend. “You look like my friend” or “I know someone who looks just like you” etc. Am I Greek??? Maybe.
After a long night of talking with one of my roommates, who was Israeli and possessed an amazing outlook on life, I slept throughout the night with the door to our balcony open, breathing in chilly air, which was a nice relief from Cairo.
The next day, I got up early and went to the National Archaeological Museum, which possesses the largest collection of antiquities in the world. Some of the prehistoric pieces were incredible, especially Agamemnon’s Mask (he was the Greek King that led the attacks on Troy). Also, some recognizable pieces that I had studied in art history made appearances during my tour…
After that, I went to several ruins sites, including Hadrian’s Library & The Roman Forum (both built during the Roman occupation), the Ancient Agora or marketplace, which was the centre of Greek life in Athens. There was an incredible Temple that is practically intact, and despite it being very heavy and dark looking, it is incredible.
I then stopped in at this extremely cool bar in the area of town where I had lunch.
After lunch, I stopped in quickly to the Jewish Museum of Greece (clearly) and saw artifacts from the Greek Jewish community, which dates back thousands of years (although no artifacts exist). It also describes the situation of Greek Jews during the Holocaust since Greece was divided three ways: between the Germans, Italians and Bulgarians. 87% of the Jewish population was killed during the Holocaust, but it also explains some of the stories of local Greeks who did their part against the resistance and hid Jews from the Nazis.
I then journeyed to the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which at the time, was the largest Greek Temple in the world at it’s standing. Now there are a dozen pillars still standing, with one that recently fell… recently as in 1852… haha. I walked to the original Olympic Stadium, where the modern Olympics were revived in 1896. From there, I walked to the Southern Slope of the Acropolis and saw the Dynosian Theatre and the Theatre of Herodes Atticus, before walking up to the top of the Acropolis. On the first day I went, it was overcast and dark, but I went back the next day. So all of these photos are just the best of both days.
At the entrance to the Acropolis is the Propylaia, which unfortunately is under major scaffolding. At the top, the largest, and by far most famous structure is the Parthenon, which is one of the most impressive Temples anywhere in the world. Parts of it have been destroyed, but seeing it in person is unlike any photo can ever describe. Just the sheer size of it, standing the tests of time, is just incredible. Some of it is still under restoration, as there has been speculation that the Parthenon is under immenent danger of collapse but several restoration of the columns have secured it for now. Which is why I recommend getting there as soon as possible… also at the top is the Erechtheion, which is a small temple where worshipers prayed to Athena (for whom the city is named after – Athena in Greek is Athens in English.
After exploring the Acropolis for the second time, I took the Metro to Pireas which is the port town located on the Aegean Sea. Everything I have read said it is beautiful; it simply isn’t. Tons of boats and ferries and fake purse/jeans/watch dealers lined up everywhere. I just got back on the train and headed to a random neighborhood to sit, drink some tea and wrote postcards.
Overall, seeing the sites was amazing… but the food was equally as great. I tried all the good stuff: a Greek Salad, a few Gyros (amazing), Souvlaki, Dolmas (grapeleaves), pita, Moussaka, which is lamb and eggplant, a variety of vegetables, and all of these come, usually topped with feta. Amazing. I also had great apple pie (purely American, haha) and Greek coffee, which is surprisingly refreshing, since I am not normally a coffee drinker.
Also for my fellow Sigma Chis, I searched long and hard for our letters, only to discover that the Sigma & Chi are not normally combined in the Greek language. The “S” sound and “Ch” sound are rarely found together, except in proper names, which I eventually found:
My journey on my own to Athens was one of the most memorable and worthwhile experiences. I was skeptical at first traveling alone, but I grew comfortable quite quickly and met tons of friendly people, both Greek and foreigners. I needed a few days to get some things in order and I needed a break from everyone at AUC (don’t worry – I still love y’all). The city far exceeded my expecations, despite it being a little seedy and rough around the edges, but I love cities like that. Perfection isn’t always a good quality, and Athens offers what I love: European charm, a sense of pride historically, a friendly atmosphere, and beautiful surroundings. If I had to choose a place to live in Europe, it has suddenly shifted from London or Paris to Athens. Since I do know the Greek alphabet (thanks pledging), I was able to navigate quite easily. Now all I have to do is learn the language. Most people already thought I was Greek so it shouldn’t be too difficult to return!
For a few days, the students of the American University in Cairo dispersed from the Egyptian capital all over the region. Some went to the Red Sea, others to Jordan, or Israel, but a huge flock (several dozen) ventured to a city spanning two continents. Founded as the seat of the Eastern Roman Empire, Constantinople, as it was called, served as the capital of East Rome, the Byzantine Empire, the Ottoman Empire, and now, as Istanbul, is one of the largest cities in Europe, and the most important cultural centre of Turkey, spanning the Bosporus Strait, with both a European and an Asian side of the city.
Since Meghan lived in Turkey for a year, she played guide (and she speaks Turkish!!), so she was the real convincer to get us to go. We left Wednesday night from Cairo International Airport on Egypt Air bound for Istanbul. Upon arrival and trying to figure out the whole Metro thing, we finally made it into the city. Along the way, however, on the train, a cute Turkish girl, about six years old, kept staring at me. To quote Carrie: “she was in love with you.” What can I say? I have this effect on little foreign girls. wAnyways… she kept staring at me, and her father kept telling her what to say, until she finally gained the courage to come over and sit across from me and say hello. After saying our names, I asked her “how old are you?” To which she replied: “I am good, thanks for asking. How are you?” I chuckled a bit, and then she almost missed her stop, and she ran back on the train and waved and said goodbye. So cute.
We ended up getting off the tram at our stop, Sultanahmet, which is the old part of the city, with a beautiful park directly between the Aye Sofia and the Blue Mosque. After finding our way to our hostel, and a brief encounter in which the hostel staff decide its a great idea to pretend like they have given our room away, we relaxed at the rooftop bar, taking in the view of the Sea of Marmara and looking across the water to Asia (from Europe).
The next day, we awoke early to pack in as many sites as possible. We began at the Aye Sofya (Hagia Sophia). Built by Byzantine Emperor Justinian I in the sixth century (over 1,500 years ago), the Church of Holy Wisdom as it is translated, is one of the largest churches I have ever seen. Built in the Byzantine Orthodox tradition, it featured several mosaics of Christian art. But, following the fall of Byzantium, the Ottomans took over the Aye Sofya and converted it into a mosque. Instead of destroying the gold and mosaics, they simply painted over it, which, since the restoration has begun, has allowed for a museum that features the influences of both Christianity and Islam in the same building. From the exterior, it is a massive complex; for over 1,000 years it was the largest cathedral in the world. It was absolutely incredible inside; a huge domed main sanctuary with large chandeliers hanging from the domed roof. Huge arcades and passageways display the glorious mosaics which have recently been restored and a part of the complex is still under restoration.
Across the gardens from the Hagia Sophia, is the Blue Mosque. Created to rival the Hagia Sophia across the way, Ahmed I, Ruler of the Ottomans, built the mosque with amazing blue tiles and multiple domes on the roof. Despite converting the Hagia Sophia, he felt it necessary to create a true mosque across the way. He succeeded, although the Blue Mosque is more impressive outside, while the Hagia Sophia is more impressive inside. Also, the Blue Mosque kind of smelt like feet, but that is a mute point, since it is an expectation of mine when entering a mosque.
After the Blue Mosque, we went to the Basilica Cistern, which is a massive underground complex comprising of several hundred cisterns, or massive columns. This subterranean complex features walkways suspended above water with several interesting cisterns, including a couple of Medusa. It was eerily creepy underground, with the water and fish, as well. We grabbed a quick lunch, and walked around the Spice Bazaar (ironically, only a few shops actually sell spices. Right?), culminating in a little adventure on the ferry leaving behind the European side, bound for the Asian side.
On the Asian side, we took another small ferry to a tiny island in the middle of the Bosporus, which as legend has it, was built to house the daughter of an Ottoman Sultan who feared his daughter would die. Built to resemble a lighthouse, we walked around on a rather windy afternoon before returning to Europe. For dinner, we went to a great Ramadan Bazaar in the gardens near the Blue Mosque where several dozen shops and cafes set up shop to serve an Iftar meal at sundown. Like I mentioned earlier, Turkey has a predominately Muslim population, but the Middle East meets the West in Istanbul. We had a fantastic meal (cheap for Istanbul standards) with a crepe-like bread filled with cheese and cooked right before our eyes.
Following a quick nap, we headed out for dessert and a night on the town. We ate great desserts at a local place in Sultanahmet. I had a great chocolate and graham cracker pastry-esque item off the menu, while enjoying a beautiful night view of the Blue Mosque. After that, we adventured to Istiqlal Street (Independence Street) where we walked around for awhile, exploring the quaint coffee houses, book sellers, and retailers, while waiting for the city to come alive. We ended up settling on a cute cafe with bean bag chairs, where I had Turkish coffee (in Turkey, clearly), smoked Nargilay (Shisha, Houkah, whatever you call it), and played Tavlah (Towlah in Arabic, Backgammon in English), as we lived like the locals do. A fun hole-in-the-wall bar was our next stop, where we heard probably the worst singer in all of Istanbul perform several horrible renditions of American songs. But it was okay, since we all knew the words, we could drown her voice out. A quick dance club was next followed by a cheap cab at 3am across Istanbul back to hostel.
The next morning, Meghan had to purchase bus tickets for their journey to Izmir, so Carrie, Dylan and I went to the Chora Church, displaying one of the finest collections of Byzantine Christian art anywhere in the world. Housed in a nondescript building, several dozen mosaics and frescoes have been preserved (see amazing photos) or visit the Wikipedia page because it is simply amazing the degree to which this art has been saved and restored, especially since much of it is over seven hundred years old! Below is the Harrowing of Hell, I do believe.
The Chora Church lies near the edge of old part of Constantinople, so we were quite close to the Old City walls, so after a quick ascent, the wall offered quite a beautiful view of the city (both the European and Asian sides) as well as quite a historical insight, since throughout the centuries, multiple empires have risen and fallen at the expense of these walls.
Sneaking onto the bus back to central Istanbul was fun, yet very crowded since we thought we were going to have to hang onto the bus while it drove, but instead the driver just shut the door and we were crammed with several Turks having to shift our weight every time the doors opened. We ate a late lunch under the bridge crossing the Golden Horn with a good friend of Meghan who lives outside of Istanbul. Since Meghan did an exchange program in Turkey for one year, her family hosted a girl as well for a year. So we sat with Deniz for a couple of hours discussing tons, learning how she desires to study at Duke next year. She is extremely bright and it would be fun if she came to DC to visit us. After walking around a little bit more, we went back and got ready for dinner at a local restaurant serving up the two foods that I so desired the entire trip: tomato soup and Manti, which slightly resemble a ravioli or tortellini in a good yogurt sauce. It was decent, although I will be making a trip back to Adams Morgan to Mezze. Anyways… we concluded our night walking through a park, seeing a statue of Mustafa Kemel Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey. He is everywhere: on the currency, on posters and in parks. So clearly, in the tradition of leaving room for: Jesus, Moses & Muhammed, we decided, in Istanbul, we should leave room for Ataturk!
The next day, I said goodbye to Ataturk & Istanbul to head to another cradle of history, Athens.
Goodbye Ataturk!
An update on my holiday is forthcoming. I promise. I just need a day or so to get my life back in order.
Here is proof that I actually went..
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