A Very Happy New Year

Being in Egypt and not being able to go to Israel for the High Holidays isn’t fun. No seriously, it’s like the distance from Boston to Washington and I am unable to be in the most important city in Judaism for the high holidays because my visa is currently is in processing. Enough whining, right?

So in lieu of going to Israel, I had to settle for the next best thing: trying to find a syngagogue in Cairo. There are only two (possibly three) functioning synagogues in all of Egypt. And when I mean functioning, I don’t mean “hey let’s go to synagogue on a Friday night and worship.” By functioning I mean that a few times a year (Rosh Hashanah -today, Yom Kippur, Sukkot, Simchat Torah, Hanukkah, Passover, and maybe four other times a year) they open the gate to worshipers. The Jewish population is Egypt is less than 100, with a man in the Israeli Embassy telling me they estimate it more at about fifty; mainly old women who have either hid their religious beliefs or have recently re-found their faith.

So anyways… today, before one of my classes I stopped into the International Student Services Office to ask directions to Adly Street (Shariah Adly) and found out it was rather close to campus (only a ten minute walk). So during my break I walked over to inquire about Rosh Hashanah services this evening. Finding the synagogue was easy (massive building with Stars of David everywhere), but actually finding any information about a time for worship was the real problem. After putzing around with a guard in Arabew (Arabic & Hebrew) for a little, he finally let me in so I could talk a member of the Israeli Embassy. I was told to return at 6:30 for shul and a feast.

So I did just that. After my Survey in Arab History course, I hopped in a cab (for 2 LE, $0.40) and took it to Shariah Adly. After illegally (haha, nothing here is really illegal) making a turn down a one-way street, we were shooed away from the front of the synagogue by none other than my friends, the IDF, or the Israeli Defense Forces. Yes, Israel sends a light brigade of thirty soldiers to “defend” the Rosh Hashanah service, should anything happen. Let me tell you, having security guards at shul at home is nice; having the Israeli Army defending your right to pray is another thing – great feeling, but you still can’t help feeling a little uneasy. After reassuring the first soldier I was Jewish, I went to security checkpoint number 2. There I was inquired about what is Rosh Hashanah, what is Yom Kippur, how many days is Passover, who is the Israeli Prime Minister, what is my Hebrew name, etc, finally culminating in me saying thank you in three languages (Hebrew, Arabic and English). Oh yeah – security checkpoint number three was next. This high-fashioned gentlemen (who easily could have fit in the Gucci Corner) was a member of Mossad. Yes, they also sent members of the Israeli intelligence service to protect us as well. I got through that one in a breeze when he saw my Chai around my neck, quarried from Eilat in southern Israel, and I was finally free to enter the courtyard of the synagogue. Along with about fifteen other worshipers, we headed into the sanctuary.

Since the synagogue doesn’t function year around, they have to bring in a rabbi to do the selected services. And the local community here in Cairo chooses a Rabbi from Paris. Growing up in Morocco, he speaks fluent Arabic and Moroccan French (a little different) and eventually moved to Paris to become a Rabbi. So this slick Morocco-Parisian walks in, dressed in white; no, not like a robe white, but a bright white suit (Versace, of course) with nice white tuxedo shoes and he introduces himself properly. By that point about ten other AUC students had found the place and we had migrated together (as we usually do) and did the “hey, where are you from, where do you go to school, etc” deal before sitting down. Upon sitting we realized we had no siddurim (prayer books). Well it turned out that no one else did, either. About fifty people were at shul (15 AUC students, 5 members of the Israeli Embassy) so the actual community consisted of maybe thirty individuals, of which maybe five had prayer books. I followed to the best of my ability with the book I was sharing and kinda, sorta knew what was going on. Meanwhile, when I got lost, I would just stare up at the gorgeous architecture of the synagogue. Built over a century ago, it has withstood the multiple sackings as nearly all of the Jews of Cairo and Egypt left.

Following services, a very nice “feast” was provided for in an adjacent room. Lots of food (including gefilte fish, a Jewish staple) was served and we just enjoyed one another’s company. A very great way of celebrating the new year; new friends, new experiences, in a completely new world.

L’shana Tova (Happy New Year) to everyone.

And a Ramadan Mubarek (Ramadan Blessings) for it is also the beginning of Ramadan tonight.

I will be at Mount Sinai (and the beach) for the weekend. I hope everyone has a great week!